At the age of four weeks, puppies are able to be handled carefully and stacked (taught to remain still), and it is beneficial for them to begin being socialized and handled at this early of an age. Remove one of the puppies from the litter before you stack them. The puppy should be placed in a straightforward standing posture, and the “stay” order should be softly said while the puppy is being gently held in place for a number of seconds. Praise should be given gently, then let go. Make it more like a game or something pleasant to do. An introduction to the “come” command consists of calling the puppy while clapping one’s hands and speaking in a pleasant tone of voice. This is a successful way of pre-training if the puppy can be coaxed to come to the person who is calling them by a second party who does it in a gentle manner and if a great deal of praise is offered throughout the process. They are able to acquire a lot of the fundamental abilities they will need between the ages of 4 and 6 weeks, which will spare the owner (and also the puppy) a lot of hassles and frustration in the future. It’s possible that the breeder already began playing these “training games” with the puppy before the animal even left their house.
When fully grown, pugs have a disposition that is more relaxed back than most other dog breeds. Pugs may also be stubborn and sensitive, in addition to being kind and sensitive. It is essential for a puppy to quickly learn to appreciate and love his or her owner, as well as to respect the owner’s position of dominance and authority from an early age. This indicates that providing praise and being consistent are both essential components of the training process. Once you have brought your new puppy home but before he is mature enough to attend a formal training session, the following suggestions will be helpful in fostering adoration, respect, and love in your new pet.
- Do Not Use Punishment: Using punishment as a training tool does not motivate your dog to want to please you or to be enthused about training, both of which come with positive reinforcement and goodies. Instead, use positive reinforcement and treats. The use of the word “no” and physical blocking (with the hands) of the puppy’s bad activities should be the extent of negative actions taken. Since you are the more experienced and astute of the two of you, it is up to you to foresee any issues and work to resolve them before they ever arise. Hitting or any other kind of physical abuse is useless in a young puppy, and it should not be employed in an older dog unless in the most severe situations, even if the dog has been mistreated in the past.
- When it comes to timing and consistency: Always keep in mind how important time is. The puppy’s capacity to comprehend what it is that you are instructing is directly proportional to the degree to which you can coordinate your motions and corrections. It is essential to make it clear to him that the consequences he is experiencing are a direct result of his actions and that these consequences will not occur if he complies with your requests. For instance, if your puppy is in another room chewing on a toy and you give him the order “come,” it is quite unlikely that he would immediately leap up, put down the toy, and come to you. Your dog will learn that the word “come” means “ignore” if no one ever brings him to you in response to the order “come.” On the other hand, if the word “come” is only used in carefully orchestrated situations while the puppy is on a leash, then the puppy can be gently pulled towards you while being praised. As a result, the puppy learns that the word “come” always means to come to you, and that doing so results in praise (and maybe a cookie!).
- Sweets and compliments: Praise is closely connected to the concept of time. If you give your puppy the order “come” and he replies with the right action, but you do not reward him, he will rapidly lose interest and passion in the activity. He will eventually figure out that saying “come” won’t win him a cookie, so there’s no use in bothering him with it. On the other hand, when he is instantly showered with compliments and caresses immediately after doing the appropriate acts, he rapidly learns that the exercises are both enjoyable and beneficial. Even better for you, however, is the fact that your puppy will learn to swiftly repeat the proper behavior in order to speed up the process by which he will get his rewards. Therefore, a puppy’s comprehension of and readiness to comply with a specific instruction may be improved by the use of rewards and praise.
- Give Your Dog the Freedom to Think for Itself: In practice, this implies that you should refrain from forcing your puppy to behave in a certain way or correcting it in the beginning before you do so. Instead of utilizing force, teaching and increasing a puppy’s confidence via leading and guiding them is a far more effective method. When a puppy understands that you will do the job for him if he doesn’t do it, he has little motive to complete the task on his own since he knows you will do it for him whatever. If you give your dog the choice between being dragged behind you on a leash and being rewarded with a cookie at the end, or having to pay attention and work for a few minutes before being rewarded with that cookie, your dog will almost always choose the easier option of being dragged behind you on a leash. Therefore, you should let him labor for the prize, and he will take the task as one that he is obligated to do.
- Working for just a Few Hours at a Time This one is relatively easy to understand. Puppies have a hard time focusing for long periods of time. You can guarantee that you have the complete attention of the puppy by keeping the sessions brief (ten minutes) and performing them often (two to three times per day). This will also prevent the puppy from becoming bored. Working for shortened amounts of time may also result in positive outcomes.
- Repetition: Working for brief bursts of time and doing a certain movement or activity as many times as necessary to perfect it or come close to mastering it go hand in hand with the concept of repetition. When you have it down pat, put an end to it. The young dog learns that completing an activity without making any mistakes and in a timely manner gives it its own reward in the form of freedom from further repetition of the activity.
- Both patience and confidence are required: It takes a TON of patience and a lot of self-assurance to train a puppy. The information passes down the leash to the puppy as readily as electricity travels down a wire; thus, puppies are able to tell when their owners are confident in themselves and in what they are doing. A lack of confidence is something that may be addressed by consistent practice and independent effort. If you don’t deal with the issue of knowing what you need to know, then your puppy won’t learn. Impatience is easier to acquire than patience, but if it is not utilized consistently, it can generate anxiety and lack of trust in the puppy. Patience is more difficult to learn.
- Keep it Simple: A puppy will have a far easier time grasping the notion of doing little exercises one at a time as opposed to learning a whole activity in one go. For example, the sit-stay exercise is not taught in its entirety all at once; rather, it is broken down into its component pieces. After the puppy has shown that it can dependably sit on its own, the next step is to gradually increase the distance between you and the puppy. After you have mastered that portion of the training, you will be able to gradually increase the amount of space that separates you from the puppy. The amount of time spent apart from the puppy is the next aspect to consider. The young dog will eventually understand that it does not matter how far or how long you are gone, he is required to remain in the position in which he was first put until he is freed.
- Have a Chat with the Pup: A steady stream of upbeat conversation between you and your puppy is a certain way to keep the dog’s focus on the two of you. You may use words of praise in conjunction with words of punishment, and the puppy will learn to watch you and listen for variations in the command that are communicated via tone of voice. The puppy will pick up on the skill of watching your face in this manner, which is a terrific beginning for attention training.
- Hands Off: If you continuously touch a puppy while you are working with it, you will be working against your training goal. This does not apply to the first one hundred and twenty-four days of a person’s existence. At that stage in his development, a puppy needs reassurance and plenty of hugs and kisses; these things are essential for developing love and trust. The training process will go more smoothly if you refrain from handling the puppy once it has begun to understand basic instructions. If you correct a puppy who keeps leaving a sit-stay by using your hands to encircle the body and put the puppy back, the puppy will associate touching as positive reenforcement to misbehavior (that puppy brain will think, “Cool!”). If you correct a puppy who keeps leaving a sit-stay by using your hands to encircle the body and put the puppy back, the puppy will learn that touching is associated If I move, either my mother or my father will touch me. Instead, make use of the leash to guide the puppy into a sitting position with as little use of your hands as possible. During the training, the only time you should use your hands are to pat and praise the dog at the conclusion of each activity.
- Make the Most of the Opportunities You Have: There is never a bad moment to do some exercise. You may use a puppy’s need for food, attention, or even just some fun into an opportunity for you to gain an edge. Ask the puppy to “sit” before putting down the food dish after you have determined that he understands the command. When he sits, immediately both the bowl and the release are presented to him as a reward. Before beginning to play, you must call out “come.” Use “down” before bedtime. You should keep an eye out for chances to train that come your way and make the most of them. A dog should consider their whole existence to be training.
When I write, I draw on my own experiences as well as the insights I’ve made while working and learning new skills. Except in the most severe circumstances, I am a firm believer that physical punishment, such as ear pinching or spanking, has no place in the teaching process. This does not imply that it will not work for other people, and I am not condemning its usage in any way; all I am doing is providing you with some instances of things that I find to be helpful. Nothing is set in stone, and even if it were, I would never presume to be the one to try to convince you differently.
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